Watch Out for Water Shutoffs
You’ve surely noticed the water main repairs happening along 13th St. This will lead to water shutoffs at 830AM for up to five hours on Tuesday the 12th and Thursday the 14th, and perhaps other times.
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Dominique Ansel’s New Bakery Will Be Ultraluxe
Now baking at 64 University Place is Papa d’Amour, the new bakery from celebrated pastry master Dominique Ansel. It’s gonna be fancy. Here’s New York magazine’s take:
On a recent afternoon inside the kitchen that will open as Papa d’Amour later this month, the pastry chef Dominique Ansel was holding a spoonful of tomato-tinted scrambled eggs for the consideration of his wife, Amy Ma. “White pepper,” she said after trying it. “That’s not a bad thing.” She explained that Ansel will add vermicelli to the eggs to soak up any excess moisture so the mixture can then be stuffed inside a soft, steamed bao bun, which — because this is from the same chef who invented the Cronut all those years ago — will be folded in the shape of a croissant.
A single pastry that manages to reference a dim-sum staple, French patisserie, and the tomato-egg stir-fry that Ma’s mother cooked for her at home in Taiwan is but one of the many complex, globally collaged items on the menu of Papa d’Amour, which is Ansel’s “exploration” of Asian bread culture, as he puts it. More than that, it is a manifestation of love for his two children (the enfants to his papa) where customers will be able to find loaves of shokupan and sandwiches made on that Japanese milk bread (plain or laminated); pretzel-salt-crusted Chinese custard tarts; and a banana bread Malay cake derived not from the humble American home-baking staple but of Malaysia’s more elegant, fluffy, steamed sponge cake.
The Papa is particularly excited about a scallion-basil “blossom,” which, you’d never guess unless he told you, is his take on a Taiwanese scallion pancake. “I wanted something I can pull apart,” he says. He’d seen the way the pancake’s dough is fluffed by hand to give it a flaky, almost shredded surface and a chewy middle and wanted to come up with something that mimics that interplay. He was trained in France, so his mind went to two kinds of brioche: a regular version to encase the scallion component in the middle and a laminated, layered crown to encourage ripping.
Salt Bae Steak Celebrity Plotting Restaurant on P.A.S.
Signs announcing “#SaltBae coming soon” have been plastered on a space at 220 Park Avenue South, near Union Square, where a location of Japanese chain Haru Sushi once stood. Salt-sprinkling, internet sensation Nusret Gökçe first brought his famed Turkish steakhouse Nusr-Et to NYC in January, opening a 150-seat restaurant in Midtown.
But if Gökçe is indeed responsible for this signage, it could be slated for something other than a steakhouse. In February, he announced plans for a new burger chain, to be aptly named Salt Bae, telling the New York Post he’s plotting multiple locations in Manhattan and Brooklyn. The signage on the space says just “saltbae,” accompanied by an illustrated version of the butcher.
Critics fell harshly on Nusr-Et, finding the theatrical dinner served overpriced, mediocre steaks. Eater’s own Robert Sietsema described the beef as “a little rubbery” and “low on flavor,” although Pete Wells from the Times seems to have enjoyed his dining experience, going as far as calling the steak “terrific.”
The chain has over a dozen locations around the world, but only one other U.S. location exists in Miami, according to its website.
